Softer shoulders, minimal linings and relaxed fabrics designed to lighten the load on dressed-up days.

A RELAXED YET REFINED CHOICE

Words: C. Saramowicz

 

The terms ‘unlined’ and ‘unstructured’ have become more prominent in men’s fashion over the last few years. With menswear shifting into more casual territory, relaxed approaches to suiting have also started to popularise again, with more men choosing unstructured pieces alongside their standard suits.

But what is an unlined jacket, and where is the best place to wear it? Answers below.

What is an unlined jacket?

The word ‘unlined’ refers to just that – jackets without an interior lining. Most suit blazers are lined with either canvas or some kind of padding to maintain their shape. Unlined jackets do away with all of that, resulting in a looser construction and lighter weight. Some still feature shoulder pads for a more defined profile, but the idea is to generally have less rigidity and much more room for movement.

Unlined jackets tend to have all the features of standard suit jackets – lapels, pockets and single button closures – but are far more akin to a smart shacket or overshirt. They’re usually cut from more casual-leaning fabrics, offering versatility when it comes to styling, and generally feel comfier and more relaxed to wear.

 

Moss - Copper Hoxton jacket

Where would you wear an unlined jacket?

Because of the softer nature of the fit, unlined jackets offer a slightly more relaxed profile than standard suit jackets. This means they are very well suited for casual occasions like evening drinks or birthday parties, all while maintaining a level of smart.

Summer is a great opportunity to try out unstructured fits – the lack of lining offers far more breathability and works great if you’re going to be out all day but still need to look the part. A warm-weather wedding, for example, would be the perfect excuse for an unstructured linen blazer. Or, if you’re on holiday and want to add a level of formality to your evening dinner, an unlined jacket over a casual tee and a pair of chinos would hit the spot.

 

Moss - blue textured wool jacket

How to style your unlined jacket?

Due to their versatility, unlined jackets can be worn in a wealth of ways.

If you’re looking for an elevated look, you can still dress up an unstructured jacket despite its more relaxed shape. Combine our dark-blue Italian wool jacket with a white poplin shirt and dark-coloured trousers for a polished work look that’s smart without being stiff.

For something a bit more relaxed, our Copper Hoxton can act as a standout piece in a neutral outfit. When paired with a white mock neck and white chinos, it adds a shot of texture and colour, elevating the overall look without feeling too over-the-top. And with added stretch, it’ll keep you comfortable too.